Sunday, September 15

I am packing my bag for the last time before we depart this wonderful, wild and beautiful island.  So many surprises around every corner.  Even our departure from Fogo was a surprise.  We knew we had a ferry to catch and as we were planning our packing the car and the timing to get to the ferry by 10:00 we were informed that we would be picked up along with our luggage and taken to our car at 8:45 am. This made us a little nervous because there is a 62 car limit and we did not want to be #63. It was then that we were surprised to find that our car would not be in the parking lot but rather in the line at the ferry dock after being driven there the night before.  The staff took all the stress out of leaving right to the end of our trip.  By the way, our car was number nine.  

Twillingate

We left Fogo and headed to Twillingate which is where Genie’s ancestors are from.  After visiting the museum and the boat building workshop we headed for our very unusual B&B.  It turned out to be a very old building with strange shaped rooms and don’t even get me going on the shower.  You could hardly stand up in it.  Turned out the owners were from Fogo Island and knew many of our new friends.  Cheryl is also a Cobb and related to Zita Cobb who is the founder of Fogo Island and the Shorefast Foundation.  Small world for sure.

While we were in Twillingate we encountered our first wildlife sighting in quite awhile.  A black or silver fox.  Both names are correct.  He was running down the side of the road.  Jack wanted a picture of him with his good camera so got out of the car to get the camera.  The fox, ever curious, followed Jack to the back of the car whereupon John mentioned rabies which resulted in Jack running around the front of the car and leaping into the front seat.  The picture forgotten.

This location was also where we found John and Genie their lobster dinner.  A local lobster pound on the water about 20 minutes from our location.  It is run by Elaine, who wasn’t the least bothered by the fact that we arrived minutes before closing, and who cheerfully served us a delicious meal.  We drove home through fog certain we would see a moose, we did not.  After enjoying the best breakfast of the trip consisting of lots of beautiful fresh fruit, yogurt, toast, juice, perfect eggs, coffee, tea, and your choice of muffins or croissants we were off.  Another lovely day.

Gander and Trinity Harbor 

Leaving Twillingate we set off for Trinity Harbor.  However we first needed to stop in Gander as it was September 11 and we were going right by.  We visited the airport, walking inside and trying to imagine what it had been like full of the plane people and the locals and the food.  There is a piece of metal from the Twin Towers given to the people of Gander in thanks for all they did during the time that changed everything.  It was moving but at the same time it was wonderful to see how normal everything was there.  We went to the museum where we saw a small screen video of people interviewed by a network news show and another piece of metal.  Again, very low key which is what I think defines the people of Newfoundland and Gander.  Life is moving on there.  

We arrived in Trinity Harbor and checked in to our B&B.  Probably the best of the trip.  We were in an 1890’s home called Nathaniel House and we had the whole place to ourselves.  Even had laundry facilities, oh joy!  On checking in we were greeted by the aroma of braised lamb shanks that were being prepared for supper.  Without hesitation we all chose that entree for dinner.  It would not be served til later but we weren’t taking any chances on missing it.  

We had time for a good long hike.  Genie and I left John and Jack and took off on the Lower Gun Trail which wound its way around the hillside above the harbor.  We ran into Catherine who was picking a huge bucket of blueberries.  As we chatted with her we also enjoyed eating the blueberries right off the bushes.  Yummy.  She and her husband built a house in Trinity Harbor after falling in love with it a few years ago.  I can understand why.  It’s picturesque homes and harbor are featured in many of the promotional materials for Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism.

Our dinner was all we had hoped for.  It tasted as good as it smelled.  Breakfast was a different story.  We paid for toast by the slice and the raisins for the oatmeal were 50 cents.  We have the menu to prove it.

Setting off from Trinity Harbor on a misty damp morning, really the only one of the whole trip, we headed for St. John’s.  We were nearing the end of our trip.  However, one very important stop we had to make was in Dildo.  The town where Jimmy Kimmel wants to be the mayor.  The coffee shop has the best blueberry muffin ever.  Not a bad cup of coffee either.

On to St. John’s where we met up with friends from North Hatley for dinner at Merchant Tavern restaurant where I overdosed on mussels. I had ordered the appetizer size.  Could not possibly eat them all but they were good.  

Witless Bay and Elusive Puffin

A short drive from St. John’s and we were in Witless Bay for a whale and puffin cruise.  I had been lead to believe that the puffins might be gone when we arrived thus my first sighting of a puffin was just thrilling.  He/she flew by my window so fast it reminded me of the golden snitch in the Harry Potter movies.  They are often referred to as the hummingbirds of the sea.  Hard to get a picture of them. There were in fact hundreds still around.  In addition we had a few whale sightings.  We are told that during the summer they might see upwards of a hundred whales but the migration has started.  Ours was a minke whale.  At one point the captain said he went under the boat.

Our boat was chartered to take the Toronto Maple Leafs on a tour of St. John’s Harbor so after dropping us off it headed to St. John’s. Our cruise had been quite rough with pretty big seas.  We were fine but a couple of folks were not.  We went off for lunch and then drove to Cape Spear, the most Eastern point in North America.  As we arrived there we spotted a little boat bobbing and rolling in the sea below us.  Out came the binoculars and sure enough it was our boat.  They had a very rough trip from Witless Bay.  As we watched it seemed to disappear and then pop up again.  Jack later called one of the crew to inquire about the trip.  He confirmed that it was a challenge.  The man is a big Leafs fan and was thrilled to be going on the tour with his team. Plus it was his birthday.

While at Cape Spear I stopped a point Zero for the Trans Canada Trail. I won’t be walking it myself but am enjoying following a lady who is hiking it, with her dog.  Her blog can be found at Between Sunsets or you can find her on Facebook. She left from that spot June 2, 2017 and hopes to reach the west coast in 2021.  I follow her on Facebook but she also has a website.

Heading back to St. John’s we were going up to Signal Hill and what did we see but our little boat fully loaded with Toronto Maple Leafs hockey players making its way around the harbor.  Sort of a little engine that could story.  We were pleased to speak to Duncan the next day and find out they made it back to their harbor safely.

Gannets and Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Preserve

Our last day of touring was to drive out to the home of a million gannets.  They come to this area to breed before heading to Africa.  I was stunned at the numbers of them on the cliffs and the rocks.  Cape St. Mary’s is the southern most Point that they will call home.  The smell is strong of fish and the noise is quite something.  We were able to get within about 60 feet of them.  Jacks telephoto lens was incredible here.  We had a 3/4 of a mile hike out to where they were and then back again.  I decided to start walking across the plains heading in the direction we were going just to get a bit more exercise.  It was a beautiful day so why not.  After two miles the others picked me up.  Our only traffic delay was on the way back to St. John’s when we encountered a detour.

We had another wonderful dinner in St. John’s within walking distance of our hotel. Sunday was bright and sunny as we left for our final meal.  We visited with our good friend Sherry’s sister, had lunch at Mallards Cottage in a charming bay in Quidi Vidi and then it was off to the airport.

It has been a bucket list dream come true for me to see the last of the provinces in Canada.  I’m ready for a three day body reset and to get out walking with my dogs again.  However, no rest for the travelers off to New Hampshire we have a house project to get going.  We are well rested and ready to take it on.